Caring for Phalaenopsis orchids.
Phalaenopsis is often called "orchids, butterflies," because of their charming flowers of various shapes, size, pattern and color - white, yellow, pink, red, purple, brown and green - reminiscent of tropical butterflies.
Graceful, often contrasting color lip of the flower stands out spectacularly patterned (striped, mesh, tiger, speckled) or even color of flower petals, up to 8 cm in diameter. There are two types of Phalaenopsis: standard and miniature. During flowering Phalaenopsis standard types reach a height of 1 meter with a dozen or more flowers on a long peduncle; miniature height not exceeding 30 cm with fewer smaller flowers on a short stalk.
Various species and varieties of Phalaenopsis in bloom at different times, each orchid can bloom up to 3 times a year. Tongue-wide leaves Phalaenopsis (usually 4-5 pieces), appear in pairs on growing up rhizome. Flower arrow appears at the bottom of the last formed leaf.
Abscission of the lower older leaves - a normal phenomenon, so orchid does not grow too much. Pseudobulbs with Phalaenopsis are absent, but there are lots of roots, which in the nature of these orchids cling to the bark of trees or rocks (of Phalaenopsis is and epiphytes, and lithophytes).
Phalaenopsis - undemanding evergreen, ever-growing orchids; their views and blooming almost year-round hybrids are ideal for beginners. With proper care phalaenopsis abundant, long bloom and live in the house up to 7 years. For Phalaenopsis requires a warm place with ambient light without direct sunlight. Phalaenopsis grow well in back of the room with adequate artificial light.
With a lack of light, and when the temperature drops below 16 degrees in to prepare for flowering Phalaenopsis may fall off the buds. The temperature of the contents of these heat-loving orchids should not be below 18 degrees (except autumn, when it takes about 1-2 months include Phalaenopsis at 16 degrees to lay the flower buds); Phalaenopsis comfort zone is within 22-24 degrees. Watering should be very mild all year round, especially in winter.
The substrate must not dry out much, but before the next watering let it dry slightly - Phalaenopsis roots, but water needs air. If excessive watering may cause fungal infections. Irrigation water should not fall into the growing point - the center of the rhizome to prevent its decay. Phalaenopsis can be watered by "bathing", dropping half a pot of flower for a short time in a bucket of soft water to the substrate is saturated with moisture.
Phalaenopsis requires constant maintenance of high levels of humidity in all possible ways. Spraying the leaves and the air around the orchid should be carried out in the mode of the smallest spraying that water was coming in the form of "mist" and fell on the leaves in the form of "mist" and not drop that stack can get to the core of a rosette of leaves, resulting to decay. When spraying water should not fall on the flowers. In dry air orchid may be affected by scale insects.
Transplanting Phalaenopsis is held every 2 years in the rough, loose orchidaceous substrate; pot is taken a little more than before. Transfer is necessary to minimize damage to the fragile roots in contact with the edges of the pot; pot is taken a little more than before. Summer 2 times a month requires fertilizer orchids in low concentration (diseased plants should not be fertilized) in the rest of the year, including winter, fertilize rare in even lower concentrations.
Phalaenopsis do not form pseudobulbs and multiply "babies" that appear on the stems of the flowers; when the roots of the young shoots reach a length of 5 cm, they can be deposited into a separate pot. Phalaenopsis flower arrows in beautifully curved or hanging (and one orchid flower escape can bloom 2-3 times if cut flower stem on the third or fourth node, while it is not the whole protsvÑ‘l).
Shortening the stem contributes to the secondary flowering Phalaenopsis from the lower unit and extend the flowering period. For high peduncle, bends under the weight of the flowers, put a backup - as close as possible to the peduncle, but not at the edge of the pot, where there is a risk of damage to a large number of roots.